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Climb Report - Tahquitz - Angel's Fright 5.6*** (May. 2006)


'Jas' & 'Devin'

!!Devin and Jason's first Tahquitz multi-pitch swinging trad lead!!

On the West Face is 'Angel's Fright' 5.6, 3 star (meaning, good funl), 4+ pitches. Not the best picture of the entire route, sorry.

Our intrepid heros:


The first pitch is a short chimney (more of an off-width):
I found this photo by somebody else that shows it off pretty good

I had a pretty hard time with that chimney, what with the full rack and the back-pack I couldn't get positioned too well. Devin did a little more of a lie-back which is possible because there is a nice little hand crack on the right on the inside


The second pitch can be combined into the first, but I was so winded we switched leads. Devin lead straight up and over which is the slightly harder 5.6 "variation" as opposed to the more popular variation of vearing off to the right for a bit. There is a solid old piton out to the right that takes a couple moves to traverse to right at the crux of this pitch.

Devin at the top of belay #2:

The long pitch 3 (&4) that I accidentally combined together. This long pitch is the main dihedral you can see from the ground. It was the most fun pitch(es) of the route, I think. You are supposed to stop at a nice tree/bush about half way up the dihedral, but I got greedy and tried to continue up to Lunch Ledge. There is a fairly easy 5.4/5.5 overhand at the top. Unfortunately, by that time I was so winded it felt much harder than it should have been.


My 3rd belay looking back down:


So we were supposed to stop mid-way through that last pitch and then continue past this point up over these rocks to Lunch Ledge which is just over the top there. Like all the route descriptions and topos say, DO NOT stop at this tree that we are at. The reason being is that you'll come up a little short at the top from here. If you stop at Lunch Ledge, you can make it all the way to the top.


So Devin had to improvise and make one last belay at the top of the 5.6 friction variation just before the top.
Found this other photo from the side of the nice 5.6 friction pitch


So I did a psuedo belay for the last 10m of walk-off.


Made it!



We found our way down the friction descent well enough. That hike back to the packs then down to the car is a killer! We were pretty tired but very stoked.